Wednesday, March 3, 2010

Traffic in Sao Paulo, just one more reason to hate SP

Traffic in São Paulo is not bad, it would have to improve by a factor of 1000 in order to be classified simply as bad. There are two major thoroughfares in the city, the Pinheiros and the Tiete. In the US these would be called freeways since their speed limit is about 55 and they have no traffic lights. Whenever I see one of the few speed limit signs I always think that 55 is the goal not the limit. You never shift higher than second, ever, at any time of the day. You don't believe me? You think I exaggerate...

Every day, all day traffic is so slow that a unique industry has developed on the side of these roads. People selling refreshments, snacks, phone chargers, mosquito rackets etc. This is what these people do for a living, it's a job they have created for themselves in an industry invented out of necessity.








Some have grabbed prime real estate positions in turnouts and they set up little tents by the road every day. I'm sure these territories are contested and defended by none too peaceful means.







Outside the 'freeways' there are also jugglers, trained dogs and magicians who perform for cars stopped at traffic lights in exchange for a few coins.

I wish I had a picture of a roasted peanut salesman, they carry around a large paint can hanging from three strings tied into a handle, the can has hot coals on the bottom and the peanuts, wrapped in paper cones, are stacked on top. They are served hot and are delicious, if you are brave enough to eat something purchased on the side of the road.

A while back my brother bought some peanuts while stuck in traffic. As the young boy who was selling them approached the window, traffic started to move and to cut the transaction short my brother grabbed a handful of change from the ashtray and handed it to the boy knowing full well that the amount he grabbed exceeded the R$ 2.00 price of the peanuts, and drove off. 'Drove off' is a figure of speech, in Sao Paulo you don't get very far by driving off. We must have moved 15 yards and stopped again. A few seconds later the boy ran up to the driver's window and said "Mr. You gave me too much money, here's your change". It broke my heart. In a country where petty theft, robberies and break-ins are so common they hardly make good stories to tell friends over a beer, this young boy, who probably lives in squalor, chased a car to give someone change. That never happens in Brazil where honesty is just not something people can afford. Wouldn't it be great to have the money to give him a job or pay for his education? It's just such a shame.

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